Reviving this ole thread in case anyone needs the info. Just got back from Cloudcroft this past weekend. Registered bikes (plated, license, etc.) are not required to have an OHV sticker to ride the trails, even out of state bikes. If you are not plated, then you need the OHV sticker. A big problem that we ran in to is that Cloudcroft seems to operate on their own schedule...meaning places and businesses don't open up when they say they will. The Forrest station is closed on the weekends, and the Chamber of Commerce never opened on Saturday like the sign says they are. We went all over town looking to get OHV stickers with no luck. General consensus talking to the locals is that they order theirs online ahead of time, and the sticker is mailed to you. Got stopped by a local police officer when hitting the road for about a mile to the trail head. Had two bikes with plates, 1 without. He was nice enough to just give us a warning and some pointers on the trails.
Rim Trail is a blast to ride. Goes straight south for ~30 miles of single-track. Moderate rating. Some difficult but some easy. At the end you have the option to come back on the same trail, hit the 40 miles of nice gravel roads winding along the mountains, or hit the asphalt to get back. Good mix of thick vegetation, red dirt, lots of rocks, slick roots....a little bit of everything. Challenging and fun. Watch out for elk, they're everywhere!
We stayed at Shyhaven Escape cabin that we found on VRBO.com. Very nice and affordable. Close to trail heads. Definitely would recommend to others and go back when I'll get the chance.